Download Building a Button Rifling Machine by Harold Hoffman PDF

TitleBuilding a Button Rifling Machine by Harold Hoffman
TagsMechanical Engineering Pump Screw Machines Rifle
File Size957.0 KB
Total Pages15
Table of Contents
                            INDEX
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
BUILDING THE MACHINENE
Locking Collar
RIFLING THE BARREL
                        
Document Text Contents
Page 1

BUILDING A BUTTON RIFLING MACHINE

BUILDING A BUTTON RIFLING MACHINE

Copyright (C) 2000 Harold Hoffman

All rights reserved. No parts of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form
or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any
information storage and retrieval system, without the written consent of the publisher.

Action Books
7174 Hoffman Rd.
San Angelo, TX. 76905
Phone 325-655-5953
Fax 325-482-9191
Home Site

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http://hppublish.com
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BUILDING A BUTTON RIFLING MACHINE

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Harold Hoffman has through his 30 plus years of experience as a Gunsmith, Toolmaker and
Custom Knife maker has passed on to you through his books information that soon may be lost or
forgotten. His books are not intended for the person wanting to make a complete firearm, but for
learning basic shop tool making.

The information found within his books is for instructional purpose only. -- The titles DO NOT
actual cover gun repair on firearms, but how to make needed parts for firearms which is
about 40% of all gun repair. Without this information you will be severely limited in gun repair.
He first started gun repair when he was 18 years old doing minor repair for the farmers and
local hunters in the Bucklin, Kansas area. His main interest was how to make rifle barrels, as
he was an avid hunter. Moving into a bigger shop he bought a lathe and proceeded to learn
how to use it. He wanted to find out how to make rifling buttons to rifle barrels, tool making,
and learn everything about making barrels. Over the years he became an expert toolmaker
and how to build most everything that was needed in the shop.

The information found in his books will show you how to make most of the equipment and
tools needed in most shops. After an eye accident he quit Gunsmithing and started writing
books on everything that he knew. He had so much difficulty finding any information that he
wanted all this information that he had learned in over 30 years to be available to everyone
otherwise it would be lost. His books are now about the only books available on
Gunsmithing/Tool making, as most publishers do not publish Gun or Gunsmithing books
anymore.

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BUILDING A BUTTON RIFLING MACHINE

angle. This is very important when rifling 22 liners, as they have a tendency to warp anyway
when rifled due to the extreme swaging operation.

When the machine is assembled, make sure all the air is bled out of the cylinders and lines. If
not, they will pull crooked if air is in the lines.Rifling Head

About the only other item that will have to be made and installed is the rifling head. The
simplest one is the use of thrust bearings. This head will hold the rifling or pull rod, and the
rod holder.



RIFLING ROD BUSHINGPull Rods

You will need one for each size rod or caliber, such as 1/8” for 17 caliber, .187 for
.224-.244-.257, and on up on the sizes. A heavy-duty bearing clamp with at least 3 3/8” set
screws to hold the barrel when rifling.

This is shown as a collar in the drawings. When rifling, the setscrew has to be VERY TIGHT.

There is a tremendous pull on the machine when the barrel is rifled, as you are pulling an
oversize button through a hardened piece of steel. The Button rifling process swages the
rifling in the steel, rather than cuts out the grooves.

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BUILDING A BUTTON RIFLING MACHINE

If you plan to rifle barrels over 30 caliber, I would suggest using a rifling head. My rifling
machine had a variable speed heavy duty, gear reduction DC electric motor. With this we
could reduce, or increase the rate of twist in seconds by use of a calibrated speed switch
such as used by a light dimmer switch sold at any hardware store. A small chain, such as a
bicycle chain or pulleys is used to drive the rifling head at the proper rotation. Slight changes
in the construction of the head will be needed to adapt to the Rifling Head, and a sprocket on
the head can be used to rotate the head. The thrust bearings are still used when using the
Rifling Head in case the setting is not exactly right.BUILDING IT

The first machine is a horizontal rifling machine. This is a good choice if you have the space
in the shop. The 4” “I” Beam is 80” long and should be straight as possible as the slides
follow it. You will need to get a 30” piece of solid steel 3” X 4” bar. This is for the Hydraulic
Cylinder end of the machine. See Figures 1 through 5.

There will be three holes drilled through this bar, two are for attaching the Hydraulic Cylinder,
and the third hole is a 1” hole in the center for the rifling head. You need a piece of three or
four inch square tubing 30” long for the other end of the rifling machine. See Figure 1 for
more details.

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BUILDING A BUTTON RIFLING MACHINE

RIFLING THE BARREL

The rifling of the barrel is the climax of barrel making. In the past this was a very time
consuming operation. Not so with button rifling. It should not take over three minutes to do
now what it took several hours or days in the past. The important part now is to get proper
lubricant for the rifling operation.Without this, when you start to rifle the barrel there will be a
loud crack, as the rod pulls into.cant

The best lubricant that I have found is MolyKote Z, made by Dow Corning Corp, Midland,
Mich. This can be purchase in various forms, but the powder is the best, and is what I
always used, and with very good results. It looks like graphite but don't let that fool you in
think that graphite will work because it won't. It is necessary to mix it with oil and swab the
bore.

This is a pressure lubricant, and they say it takes over 50,000 pounds of pressure to break it
down. It works great on lathe centers too. If the rod the rod ever pulls off do not think you can
get a rod and a big hammer and drive it out.

Don't even tempted to try. If you should be so lucky to drive the button out, it will be shattered.
To remove a stuck button stick a short rod down inside the barrel to find where the button is,
mark the outside of the barrel, add another 1 ½ inch and saw it off.

Then saw the back end off so you will have a short piece of barrel with the button in it. Next
get old hacksaw out and split it length ways on both side, and remove the button. You will
notice there will be metal welded on the button, which has to be removed.

When you saw it out be careful that you don't hit the button with the blade, as it will ruin the
blade. All that is necessary is to redo the rod and re-sweat the button back on. In button
reaming you will not need any special lubricant, just some heavy oil like STP. If you have not
left the barrel undersize, you should not have any trouble. It is wise to check each bore with a
go-no-go gauge before rifling.

After checking the bore, and lubricating the bore, you are ready to rifle the blank. Set the
barrel in the center hole in the rifling machine. Tighten the clamp around the barrel to hold it
in place. Make sure the thrust bearing is centered and in place. Turn on the machine, and
pull the control lever back and hopefully watch the barrel being rifled.

DO NOT STOP ONCE YOU STARTED, AS WHEN YOU START UP AGAIN YOU WILL
PROBABLY PULL THE BUTTON OR ROD INTO.

On the smaller calibers you will see the barrel rotating on the thrust bearings as the rifling
button makes the proper twist in the barrel, but in button reaming they won't move. When
through lift the barrel from the top frame, without removing the clamps unscrew the button and
remove from the machine. Then lower the frame back down. The barrel is through with
button reaming. If you are using 1350 or Stress proof don't button ream, only on 4150 do you
need to do this.

Lubricate the bore with MolyKote Z, put the barrel back in the machine, slide the rifling button
back down the bore, and screw it into the head. Be sure the thrust bearing is centered under
the clamp. Pull the lever back, and the barrel will rotate by itself as the button passes through
the bore. If the barrel doesn't rotate, help it. If you have a rifling head, this won't be

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BUILDING A BUTTON RIFLING MACHINE

necessary. The smaller calibers do not pull that hard, but on 45's, the motor slows down and
breathing ceases until the button comes out the barrel.

I would not recommend that you try to rifle any stainless steel at first, as on them you will need
to leave the bore slightly oversize. When the button has come out of the barrel, remove the
barrel, wipe out and you should have as good a barrel as any produced by a manufacture.

The graphics for the Making A Button Rifling was not to good. I have rescanned the
graphics and there is a good improvement on them. You will need the Adobe Reader to view
the file.



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